This blogger is all for naturally
derived ingredients in cosmetic compositions‒ providing they are
ecologically
friendly, of course.
So when I read about a recent investigation into two
bacterial pigments that have shown to improve sun protection factor (SPF), my interests
were ignited. The original story can be found on cosmeticsdesign-europe.com.
SPF and UV
UVA (315-400nm wavelength) and UVB (280-315nm wavelength) are the
prime forms of UV-radiation emitted by the sun that are capable of being
absorbed by human skin. UVA and UVB penetrate the dermis and epidermis, respectively,
UVB inducing skin burning and UVA causing premature skin ageing, hyperpigmentation,
inflammation and melanomas. The latter has been shown to be triggered by
UV-induced mutagenic DNA damage in the form of cyclobutane-pyrimidine dimers
(CPDs) and 6-4 photoproducts (6-4PPs) (1). Special
UV filters in commercial sun cream formulations protect human skin from UVA and
UVB damage. The efficacy of a sun screening ingredient is known as the sun protection factor (SPF), described
as:
Minimal erythema dose (MED)= lowest UV
irradiation dosage capable of elicitting a minimal and noticeable erythema
(skin redness) on unprotected skin.
To be effective, a
sunscreen ingredient should have a widespread absorbance between 290-400 nm (2).
Current commercial
sun creams
Sun creams are laden with
ingredients that reflect, absorb and scatter UV-radiation. Inorganic substances e.g. zinc oxide and titanium oxide reflect high-energy photons away
from the skin, whilst organic
substances including oxybenzene and p-amino benzoic acid absorb UV-radiation
and emit lower energy rays. Yet these compounds are under scrutiny for adverse
health effects in human skin. Zinc oxide nanoparticles have been found to be
genotoxic, causing oxidative stress and lipid peroxidation, and organic
sunscreens may be triggered by
UV to generate photosensitizer compounds which may react with cutaneous
molecules, inducing adverse effects on skin (3). Yet humans are not only affected; organic sunscreen benzophenone-2 (BP-2) has
been shown to be a photo-toxicant to the coral
Stylophora pistillata, transforming coral planulae into a deformed state and
inducing DNA lesions, with adverse effects such as necrosis in the dermis and
gastrodermis intensified in light and autophagy and autophagic cell death
amplified in darkness, upon exposure to BP-2 (4). With a rising demand for
substitution of chemical sunscreens with bio-sunscreens comes a search for
natural, environmentally sustainable and non-toxic sources of UV-screening
compounds.
Current research:
bacteria
The
photosynthetic Cyanobacteria inhabiting a diverse array of ecological niches from
the thermophilic to halophilic, are exposed to oodles of UV-radiation. To
neutralise the damaging effects of UV exposure, cyanobacteria have cultivated mechanisms
for generating metabolites, e.g. mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) and
scytonemin, absorbing wavelengths in the UVA and/or UVB spectrum. Unlike wild
sources (e.g. marine macroalgae) of these same UV-screening metabolites in
bio-suncreens, whose biomass and metabolites may fluctuate seasonally,
cyanobacterial growth is not dependent on season so can be cultivated, for
instance, in photobioreactors, to obtain their natural products. More than 50
cyanobacterial genome sequences exist, enabling genome comparison amongst cyanobacterial
strains and their relatives for genetic optimisation. Therefore, cyanobacteria
can be further genetically optimised to create commercially relevant UV-sunscreen
ingredients at an industrial level, by establishing cheaper and sustainable
cultivation strategies (5).
Bacterial pigments: Two bacterial pigments, prodigiosin and
violacein, from UV-tolerant Serratia
marcescens and Chromobacterium
violaceum, respectively, have recently been shown to improve SPF, whilst
demonstrating antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. Prodigiosin and
violacein are constitutively produced without UV exposure, indicating their antimicrobial
activity against Gram positive bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus as well as marine microalgae. The study determined
SPF by spectrophotometry as shown in the graph below, SPF values for the
commercial sunscreens of SPF 15, 24 and 40 increased 19%, 22% and 10% with
addition of violacein, respectively, and 65%, 42% and 20% with addition of
prodigiosin, respectively. These results suggest that the pigments cause
conformational changes in the active ingredients of the commercial sunscreens,
boosting their photoprotective qualities (6).
In conclusion: biotechnological
value
The current research presents
potential for novel bacterial bio-sunscreening compounds. Further investigation
is required at the molecular level for the proficient biosynthesis of UV
sunscreen substances, and subsequent genetic manipulations for optimisation of
compounds and enhanced synthesis. Despite additional studies being a necessity
to test cytotoxicity, genotoxicity and photostability in mammalian cells for
human use, this blogger would like to see whether genes for such metabolites
are able to be isolated and transduced into other expression systems optimised
for product expression, such as Escherichia
coli strains, to produce vast quantities for commercial use.
For more information:
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